Tuesday, February 23, 2010

Harlaftis Winery Athanassiadi, Nemea, Greece 2007



Hi, again. I sit in front of my computer once again with an open bottle of wine in front of me. This wine might interest some people (me included) because it is Greek. With the LONG history of winemaking in Greece it might seem surprising what a small portion of the US market its wines control. I believe we will be seeing more and more Greek wine as their general quality continues to rise with the help of more winemaking experience and better technology. This wine is from the Nemea region and I was told that it is made from 100% Agiorgitika grapes and sees no oak. Here are my initial impressions (the picture shows the wrong vintage):

Harlaftis Winery Athanassiadi, Nemea, Greece, 2007, 100% Agiorgitika, about $11 retail, distibuted in this area by So Po Wine Co
dark ruby with watery rim
nose: medium- intensity of juicy, almost candied red fruit (sweet red cherry, raspberry) and just a hint of peppery spice and green pepper
palate: quite like the nose. The fruit manages to stay fresh enough (not candied) that I enjoy it. The nose had me a little worried that the wine would taste "fake", but it doesn't. The lack of oak treatment is, I think, allowing the fruit to take the forefront, and the hints of spice and green pepper that I got on the nose remain just hints on the palate.
The wine has medium- body, acid, tannins, and length. It doesn't really change much during the palate and is a bit one dimensional, but that dimension is tasting good. I would call it good, probably 83 points for my palate, and considering that it comes from a category not hugely represented in our market, I think it is a reasonable value. I would recommend it to anyone who wants to try something new or anyone who knows they like this style of wine.

I would like to thank everyone who has made it this far for reading our posts. If you are reading, please leave us comments. We would love your feedback, including any suggestions or requests you might have.

Tuesday, February 16, 2010

2006 Barone Cornacchia Montepulciano d'Abruzzo


Hi, again, folks. I'm running the risk of alienating those who check this blog solely for Galen's posts by writing my second in one day. Don't worry; I'm in a better mood now (I'm drinking wine). I am willing to take this risk because I am hoping my presence will encourage (or shame) Galen into continuing with this, his, blog. I understand that people wonder where to get these wines about which we write. I agree with the sentiment of not promoting any single retailer. I do think maybe it will help people to know who distributes the wines in this area. If you have a favorite wine shop you can ask them to special order you a bottle of the wine. That should be easy for them provided you can tell them which distributor to ask and that the shop buys from that distributor. If they don't buy from that distributor, you should be able to find someone who does. Now, on to the wine.

2006 Barone Cornacchia Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, about $15 retail, distributed by Easterly Wine
opaque ruby with lighter ruby rim
medium intensity (nose and palate), body, acid, and length; medium-, fine tannins
The nose shows some game and oak (comes across as smoke, toast, and plain old oak staves) with overtones of dark plum, red cherry, graphite, and dust.
The palate starts out a lot like the nose, but gives way to a fairly explosive midpalate with a lot more fruit dominance. The components are similar, and everything is still there, but the dominant flavors change. The finish is more like the attack. I also get a little raspberry and maybe some other dark berry fruit. Some coffee also emerges from the midpalate to the finish. The flavors are nicely balanced and I like the combination of earthy tones and fruit. As the fruit drops out on the finish, I am left with a slightly awkward bitterness that's costing this wine a point or two. The gaminess might be a little weird to those not familiar with that element, but this wine would go gorgeously with a variety of meats and would, with such a pairing, be pleasant even to such people. Personally, I think it's quite nice on its own and is delivering very good quality for the price and category. Heck, this is very good quality in general. If you like the reds of central and southern italy, this wine is for you. If you're not familiar with the montepulciano grape, this would be a good start. 86 points

If there are regions or varieties whose wines you want us to write about, please let us know by leaving comments. Thank you for returning after we let this endeavor go for so long.

Copain and a quick rant



Sorry to anyone who cares that we've let this blog die while still an infant. I just stumbled upon it (yes, I had pretty much forgotten) and decided to look through my notes for a decent tasting note to post. This wine is not available in Maine (sorry ... the original idea was to review wines people can find, but I think it's okay since we haven't been doing that anyway), but I'm a big fan of Copain since the '06 vintage. They still won't ship to Maine because our stupid legislators can't properly create a law enabling small producers not distributed in this state to do so. These legislators claim that the new law is great and does allow such activity, but if someone as small as Copain spent the time and money necessary to do so legally, they'd probably be losing money shipping wine to Maine. The last thing I'll say, now that I feel better after having unfairly generalized about an entire group of people, some of whom might even know how to craft good laws, is that this note is from my pocket notebook and will not have the detail as others here. Edit: I am leaving the original text in here so you can laugh at my foolishness, but here's an update regarding Copain. With their next release, they will be able to ship to Maine. I guess they decided it would be profitable after all. Great news for us. If you like wines made in the style I describe here, I highly suggest getting on their mailing list. If you're not sure, I believe you can order the Tous Ensemble series (not single vineyard, but still very good wines) without being on their mailing list. So for now, for this blog, the score is State of Maine:1 -- Doug:-1 (I subtracted a point for being so rude). I hear Maine will even take back the rule about minors not seeing any wine tasting going on. Now maybe they can learn not to create these problems in the first place. I promise to post something better soon. If I fail to do so I encourage people to comment, blasting me as ruthlessly and unfairly as I have just blasted certain lawmakers (don't even get me started on the idiot from Freeport who thinks kids shouldn't see any wine tasting going on). I leave it to Galen to censor me if he sees fit.

2006 Copain Alder Springs "Spirit Rock" Syrah, Mendocino (picture shows wrong vintage)-- not available in Maine, but about $40-$45 on release, if I remember correctly - tasted 12/25/09
opaque purple with ruby, watery rim
The nose and palate of this wine are quite similar. I got blackberry juice, white pepper, green pepper (slight enough to be charming rather than off putting), other savory spices, underripe plum, and black cherry. When I delved further I noticed a little lavender. The length was medium- and the flavor and aromatic intensities were medium+. The wine was very pretty and quite fresh for CA Syrah. This was right on the border for me of very good and outstanding. I scored it 90 points, but I would have gone higher if the finish had held on a bit longer. These wines are built to age and I suspect that element might flesh out a bit over the next few years.

For those who aren't familiar with Copain, Wells Guthrie (cofounder and vigneron) has, since the '06 vintage been focused on sourcing fruit from the coolest sites in CA (mostly Anderson Valley and the rest of Mendocino) in order to create wines of balance and significant acidity (sorry I didn't note the acid in this wine) that will age well. I can't comment on ageability, but in my opinion he is certainly accomplishing the rest of his goal, and the balance and acidity make them great food wines. The pinot noirs are quite elegant and this syrah was extremely well balanced. The wines I've had so far are almost Old World in structure (the pinots are Old World in structure) and yet distinctly Californian in flavor profile. If this style interests you, I suggest trying his Tous Ensemble wines. They're his entry level line (the only ones blended from multiple vineyards) and great values. The '07 Tous Ensemble Pinot Noir is killer and currently being discounted in a couple of places. You can find the wines in Massachusetts if you go there ever, or I would suggest (if I advocated such things, which I do not) ordering directly from www.copainwines.com and having the wine shipped to a friend or relative in New Hampshire. Let NH have the excise tax since Maine doesn't seem to want it (or don't -- I'm not saying this is the right thing to do and am obviously against the illegal practice of transporting alcohol across state lines ... in fact, I have no idea how I acquired the bottle I just reviewed).

Wednesday, July 1, 2009

Chateau des Annereaux Lalande de Pomerol 2005



83% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Franc, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon Deep ruby color with a watery rim. Medium body, acidity, alcohol (12.5% avb on label), and flavor intensity with medium minus, superfine tannins that are more evident on the teeth and gums than anywhere else.
This wine needed some air time. It was closed and almost unpleasant at first, but here's what's going on after about a half hour in the decanter. Nose has blackberry, plum, dusty, dirty earthy notes, and a chalky mocha element. The palate has nice fruit, like that of the nose, up front and gives way to a balanced midpalate that is quite similar to the entire aroma with a little more complexity, including a hint of tobacco. Strong fruit on the backpalate leads to a decently long (medium/medium plus) finish that gets a bit green and bitter at the very end. As the green, bitter flavors were dominating the wine when it was first opened, I think they might subside with more air or a little more time in the bottle, which this wine obviously needs anyway. My score reflects my current impression, but I do think the wine has the potential to be even better in 2-4 years. This wine was on the shelf for $20 and I think is a very good value at that price. I guess there still is some good Bordeaux that I can afford. Note: the awkwardness of the finish is diminishing with more time into what I think of as the pleasant side of Cabernet Franc. My score will stay the same, but I still see more potential here.
89 points

Thursday, June 25, 2009

Wine Video? Why not.....

When I started this blog I only wanted to review wines, no more, no less. However tonight I came across this video on hulu.com (dont worry its free and legal to watch): http://www.hulu.com/watch/79439/wine-for-the-confused.

This 45 min documentary follows John Cleese around California while he hosts a blind wine tasting, travels to different local vineyards, visits a restaurant, and finally invites wine professionals to his house, all for the sake of making wine more approachable and less 'posh.' I found it very interesting because it stared John Cleese, and because it is a documentary for basic wine appreciation, understanding and purchasing. The reason I decided to post this video on the blog was because the program made some great points that I want to stress.

1) No one should tell you what you should like. While reading reviews is a great way to find out about different wines, and read other people's opinions, I cant stress enough that reviews are just that, other people's opinions. I've heard a few good sayings that solidify this point, "Drink what you like, and all the rest is commentary" and "Trust your own palate." There are objective ways to evaluate the different aspects of wines, but those equations do not take into consideration that each person has their own palate and therefore enjoy different things. Personally I dont usually like the wines that Robert Parker (a big time wine critic) likes, typically I tend to enjoy the wines that Stephen Tanzer (another big time critic) enjoys the most. This is not always true, but its a good way for me to find new things that I may like.

2) Just because a wine is expensive doesnt mean that its good, and again the opposite is also true. Expensive doesnt always equate to quality, and inexpensive doesnt always mean its not good. Ive tried some amazing wines that were more than one months rent, but Ive also tried expensive wines that didnt really impress me. Also there have been some wines that cost less than a large pepperoni pizza that are aso impressive.

3) Try new things, and dont get stuck on trends. In the 80's and 90's merlot was a top selling grape, then a popular movie came out shunning merlot and praising pinot noir. Guess what...pinot noir sales when up and merlot went down. Personally I like merlot, some of my favorite bordeaux wines are predominately merlot.

4) Work on developing your palate, and building a vocabulary to help pull out specific features of the wines you like. The only way to do this is drink more wine.

5) Find a store that you like, and start a dialog with the employees. Dont be afraid to tell them what you like and allow them to make recommendations for new things.

So there are many other little tid-bits in this documentary as well as interviews with winery owners, grape growers, sommelier, and other wine professionals. I must admit that I wish it had more humor, but it covers some basics about wine, and is a good show for people just getting into wine. Don't worry this is not going to become a habit (reviewing anything other than wine itself), but again I thought this video made some good points and I wanted to share it with others.

Let me know what you think

Galen

Wednesday, June 24, 2009

Coto De Hayas rosado 2007

Producer: Coto De Hayas
Country: Spain
Region: Campo De Borja
Vintage: 2007
Style: Rose
Grapes: Mostly Garnacha, some Tempranillo, a little Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay.
Declared Alcohol (on label): 13%
Approximate Price: $6/Glass
Date Reviewed: 6/23/2009
Reviewed By: Galen Ricci

Appearance:
Clear with a medium crimson color, thin watery edge and average legs.

Nose:
Clean (no cork faults or oxidization). The aroma had a medium intensity with youthful notes of, cranberry, cranberry juice, strawberry and orange peel/zest.

Palate:
As expected the wine was dry with medium to medium + acid, medium body, medium alcohol, and no perceivable tannins. The flavors maintained a medium intensity with notes of tart cranberry, sour strawberry, red cherry, and a touch of orange zest. The finish had a medium length.

Conclusion:
This rose's quality was good. The price range fell between inexpensive and mid-priced. As for the development, the wine is ready to drink and should not be aged.

Author's Notes:
I tasted this wine at a local restaurant and I was surprised because this wine looked and smelled almost exactly like fresh cranberry juice. I bet I could have fooled someone into thinking it was cranberry juice, until they took a sip. Of course this wine was served chilled, so I waited until it came closer to room temperature before taking any notes. As it warmed up the bouquet started to show a few more characteristics than just cranberry juice, but those aromas were faint, and even though I had my nose within millimeters of the wine, I was really searching for some extra descriptors. I would feel comfortable saying that the bouquet on this wine was a "one and a half" trick pony, but the jury is still out as I should really taste this wine again when Im sure its at room temp rather than guessing while sitting at the bar. Hey I was thirsty, so give me a break.

The flavors on the palate were much more defined showing red fruits (cranberry, strawberry, cherry), with a touch of citrus (orange zest), and this was well balanced with good acidity (very important in my mind). I also enjoyed the body because it had a pleasant weight that seemed to provide substance to the wine. The finish was also very nice since it lasted for a reasonable length and didnt show any signs of bitterness (sometimes I find that in large production roses because the crushing method might be a little more aggressive and the bitter oils from the seeds end up in the juice).

The palate was a more expressive than the bouquet, but there weren't layers of flavors to intrigue my taste buds for hours of enjoyment. Instead this wine was very straight forward and to the point, and that point was cranberry! Which isnt a bad thing especially at this price. While I was sitting at the bar I conducted an experiment and tasted this wine with two types of cheese. First bree, second gorgonzola. As to be expected it was delightful with the bree. The acidity of the wine cut through the creaminess of the bree, and added a little bit of pleasantly tart fruit to the rich cheese, an nice combination. As for the gorgonzola, well that was a completely different story, I wasnt expecting a good pairing, but I didnt expect a train wreck in my mouth either. What came together in my mouth was a train wreck with a truck full of cow shit. *Note to self, dont try that combo again, even if its for the science of wine pairings*

When it was all said and done I did enjoy this wine for providing me with a well priced, straight forward, all around good rose. This is a wine that doesnt require much thought because it puts everything in front of the consumer and doesnt have anything to hide. I would score this wine 87 points, since its balanced and enjoyable. If I paid 6 dollars for a glass then I bet it would be on a wine shelf at a retail store for around $9-$12, which is a stellar price. If anyone know how much this wine costs retail I would like to know.

Sunday, June 21, 2009

E. Guigal Chateauneuf du Pape 2001

Domaine: E. Guigal
Country: France
Region: Chateauneuf du Pape
Vintage: 2001
Style: Red
Grapes: 80% old Grenache, 10% Syrah, 5% Mourvèdre and others.
Declared Alcohol (on label): 13.5%
Approximate Price: $49/bottle
Date Reviewed: 6/21/2009
Reviewed By: Galen

Appearance:
Clear with a deep ruby/tawny core and a medium tawny rim. The color spread to the edge completely leaving no room for a watery rim. The legs were medium sized with an average speed.

Nose:
The nose was clean without any cork faults or oxidization. The aromas had a medium to medium + intensity and were clearly on the developing side of maturity. The bouquet showed Dark Cherry, Prunes, All-Spice, Cocoa, Coffee, Caramel, and had a slight Gamy tone.

Palate:
The wine was dry, with medium to medium + acid, and medium tannins. The alcohol, body and length also fell into the medium category. The intensity of the flavors were medium to medium - and showed, Red Cherry, Prunes, Leather, Smokiness, and a Gamy quality.

Conclusion:
Overall the wine fit into the good category, and is about mid priced for this region. This wine is ready to drink now, but can age longer.

Authors Notes:
I should start by saying that I purchased this wine at a supermarket in their close out section. It was a half bottle (375ml) for, no shit, $3.50. I also picked up a half bottle of veuve clicquot nv for $14, crazy I know. So now that I explained the situation about where I bought the wine, this might set the tone for what I think about this wine. 2001 in chateauneuf-du-pape was a stellar year, erobertparker.com scored this vintage in southern rhone as 96 out of 100, and noted that most of the wines were still tannic and were slow maturing. I agree that this wine was still tight, and needs more time to mature. However, I dont trust the conditions that it was stored in for the past few years (I know that this bottle was sitting on the grocery store shelf, probably standing up, for at least 3 years, because the most current vintage of this wine is 2006). So I decided to open this wine up and enjoy my $3.50 purchase, for the sake of this blog. Now on to my personal assessment of the wine.

I loved the color of this wine, I get really excited about older red wines because I really enjoy the transition from fruity to savory flavors that wines take on as they age. Red wines start to get a little lighter in color and the watery rim starts to disappear, which was the case with this wine. I thought the nose on this wine was wonderful, many layers of developed fruits, tied in with spices, kernel (coffee, chocolate), and animal (leather, gamy). Had I been sitting around with other people smelling this wine we could have found 20 plus different descriptors for the nose, all built off of a well made, mature wine.

The palate was a bit more challenging though, since I use the pop and pour technique (this wine should be aerated before consumption), the palate was not as interesting as the nose. The fruit, spice, kernel, animal aspects really ran together and didnt show themselves individually. In contrast, the alcohol was very well integrated into the wine, and didnt provide any excessive 'heat,' which was very pleasant. The tannins were not nearly as robust as I had expected, they were nice and velvety, but for this vintage and this region I was expecting a little more grip. Also I expected a little more weight in the body, but then I did some research and discovered that this vintage from Guigal was mostly grenache (producers in chateauneuf-du-pape are allowed to blend up to 13 different varietal), which in southern rhone produces wines that are typically low in tannin and color. As the wine had time to breath the flavors started to open up more and show more depth, but still I expected a lot more from this producer and vintage. I cant recall if Ive had a 2001 chateauneuf-du-pape, but I do recall enjoying a variety of wines from this region from various vintages, and most of them were younger and had a lot more character. The length on this wine was medium (average), and I was hoping for a lot more, even though it had a front, middle and finish, it still didnt last on my palate as I would have expected it to. If this was a smaller producer I might give them a more of a break, but Guigal is a large producer with land all over rhone, basically I expect a lot more from this wine. Am I disappointed? not a chance since I paid $3.50 for the bottle. I might have been disappointed if I spent $49 per bottle on this wine.

In the end it came down to the fact that the flavors on the palate were not as interesting or as intense as the aroma on the nose, add to that the length was too short for my expectation of this region. From my experience I would suggest that readers find other Chateauneuf du pape's within this price range. I score this wine 89+ points, there are much better examples of this region out there. Not to mention there are $15 spanish grenacha's with longer finish than this wine.